When it comes to purchasing the perfect luxury timepiece, there are countless factors to consider. Browsing different brand names, contemporary styles, and heritage designs is daunting enough. If you aren’t an expert, getting a glimpse at the fancy words used to describe a model can only add to the confusion.
That’s why we’ve broken down these terms for you! The next time you stop by your local watch store, consult this A-to-Z guide to get your bearings and make a smart designer watch purchase.
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At this point, watchmaking is a centuries-old craft—and the vocabulary has only grown over the years. Unless you’re a trained artisan or experienced collector, many of the words used to describe watch features and how a timepiece moves can be confusing. Luckily, with this glossary, discovering the definitions behind the most important terms in watchmaking is easy.
Alarm
The alarm uses a mechanical complication, rather than digital, to produce a buzz or ring at a previously set time. This feature often uses a separate power barrel, hammer, and gong system to generate the unique sound. When it’s time for the alarm to go off, the energy stored in the spring is released, and a small hammer strikes against a metal spring.
When you think of an alarm clock, you’re likely picturing the small devices that sit on a bedside table and wake you up for work in the morning. In the world of analog wristwatches, alarms are less common, a surprising fact considering how useful the function is in our day-to-day lives.
Altimeter
The altimeter watch function measures the altitude of a person or object above a fixed range (often sea level) by measuring the atmospheric pressure. In some designs, altimeter watches can also display a compass as well as the temperature and speed of an ascent or descent. If you’re an avid hiker, camper, or skier, you’ll love sporting a designer altimeter timepiece with this feature, such as the black Oris ProPilot Altimeter Watch.
Amplitude
Often referred to as the heartbeat of a watch, the amplitude refers to the angle at which the balance wheel sweeps back and forth. Amplitude is measured in degrees, and, while it’s subtle enough to be invisible to a casual onlooker, it’s a key indicator of how well the internal mechanisms are working. Too low, and your watch may struggle to maintain proper timekeeping; too high, and the impulse pin may collide with the pallet fork, resulting in instability and damage.
Factors That Influence a Watch’s Amplitude:
- Power reserve
- Lubrication
- Dirt and debris
- Wear and tear
- Position
Analog
An analog watch is simply one where the hours, minutes, and occasionally seconds are indicated by the hands on a dial. These designs tend to produce the iconic ticking sound many of us associate with traditional timepieces.
Annual Calendar
The annual calendar is a mechanical watch function that tracks and displays the date, day of the week, and month automatically and continuously for months with 30 or 31 days. This type of calendar function must be adjusted once a year at the beginning of March, since February only has 28 or 29 days.
Aperture
The aperture on a watch refers to the small window or cutout on the dial that reveals specific information, such as the date, month, or moon phase, on a rotating disc. These gaps enable the wearer to quickly glance down to glean the info without needing extra sub dials.
ATM
The ATM, short for atmospheres, is the unit used to describe a timepiece’s water resistance. 1 ATM represents the pressure at 10 meters of depth. The higher the ATM, the greater the water resistance. Serious diving watches, like the Breitling Superocean Automatic 46 Super Diver Watch, can have up to 100 ATM.
Balance Wheel
The balance wheel is a crucial component of mechanical watches. Acting as a tiny pendulum and working in tandem with the hairspring, the wheel rocks back and forth at a precise and steady rate to regulate a steady release of energy from the mainspring.
Barrel
The barrel is the cylindrical piece in a mechanical watch that houses the mainspring. Its role is to store the energy accumulated during the winding process, gradually releasing it to drive the movement.
Bezel
The bezel refers to the grooved outer ring that frames the dial and holds the crystal in place. This piece is typically made from ceramic or metal and can be either immobile or rotatable, depending on the complexity of the design.
Types of Bezels in Watchmaking:
- Fixed bezel: unable to move, these bezels serve a more decorative purpose and often feature precious stones or textured metal engravings
- Unidirectional bezel: commonly found on diver’s watches, only turning one direction and unable to be bumped, serving as a safety timer
- Bidirectional bezel: mostly used in pilot’s watches, rotates clockwise and counterclockwise to help the wearer measure time-related events like elapsed times or multiple time zones
- Tachymeter bezel: often worn by runners, measures elapsed time over a fixed distance to track speed
- GMT bezel: perfect for travelers, it’s marked with 24 hours, used to track a second or third time zone in addition to the local time
Bridge
The bridge is a key structural component that supports and secures the balance wheels, escapement, and other parts of the movement. These shaped plates act as the skeleton for the more delicate parts of a timepiece, ensuring stability, precise alignment, and reliable timekeeping.
Caliber
The caliber, sometimes spelled calibre, describes the specific internal engine or movement that powers the watch. Calibers can be either mechanical or quartz and include a complex assembly of gears, springs, and other expertly crafted components that work together to keep precise time. Manufacturers tend to use their own system to number the movements that are developed in-house.
Are Watch Movements the Same as Watch Calibers?
While the two terms are often used interchangeably, they do have a slight difference in their definitions. The movement refers to the entire technical and functional aspects of the mechanism that powers a designer watch, encompassing more main parts like the escapement and balance wheel. A caliber specifically refers to the design of a particular movement type, often with a unique name or reference number, including specific features and characteristics used in the watchmaking world to distinguish one movement from another.
Case
A watch case is the durable metal outer shell of a timepiece, containing the dial, movement, and bezel. Its main function is to protect the timekeeping features from dust, debris, moisture, and sudden shocks. Cases for men’s and women’s watches can be made out of different high-quality metals such as stainless steel, gold, and titanium, and come in different shapes, depending on the design.
Common Case Shapes for Designer Watches:
- Round
- Rectangular (called Tank, if buying from Cartier)
- Square
- Tonneau
- Cushion
- Oval
- Octagonal
Chronograph
Chronograph wristwatches include a stopwatch feature in addition to the regular time. Most chronograph designs feature two push buttons on the side of the case and an extra hand that remains stationary at the 12 o’clock position until the function is utilized. To start and stop the stopwatch, the wearer will hit one of the buttons. To reset the hand, they simply press the other button.
Chronometer
A term coined back in the early 1700s by Jeremy Thacker, chronometers refer to high-precision timekeepers developed for maritime navigators to determine longitude at sea. To be assigned the chronometer label, the watch must have been tested over a long period of time to meet the standards of the COSC. Though the names have the same Latin root word, a chronometer is not to be confused with a chronograph.
Clasp
The clasp, or buckle, of a men’s watch refers to the pieces at the ends of the bracelet that come together to fasten the design to the wrist. If it’s a well-designed clasp, the wearer will be able to quickly (and securely) open and close the part with minimal effort. There are multiple types of clasps used in watchmaking, and they can often make or break the aesthetic of a design.
Co-Axial Escapement
The co-axial escapement is designed to minimize the sliding friction between components, which has long since been the main source of wear and energy loss in more traditional lever escapements. Consisting of an escape wheel, co-axial wheel, and lever, this three-part system utilizes both radial and lateral impulses to transfer energy.
It’s often considered by experts to be one of the most significant modern achievements in horology. Conceived in 1999 by George Daniels and developed further by OMEGA, the virtually oil-free escapement used smaller contact surfaces, resulting in less friction, less lubrication, and great overall reliability.
Complications
Sometimes described as “functions,” a watch complication simply refers to any feature a timepiece has that goes beyond the basic timekeeping of hours, minutes, and seconds. If a design has multiple complications, the internal mechanism will require additional parts, adding to the value and complexity of a timepiece. As the world of watchmaking advances, more and more complications are expected at a baseline level.
Examples of Watch Complications:
- Alarms
- Minute repeater
- Moon phases
- Power reserve indicator
- Tourbillon
- Dual movements
- Perpetual calendar
Countdown Timer
A countdown timer wristwatch lets the wearer time an event backwards. If you need to run laps for a specific time frame or take a recipe out of the oven in ten minutes, you can set the feature on your timepiece to alert you when the necessary time has passed.
Crown
The crown is an essential element in the construction of a wristwatch. Often located at the 3 o’clock zone on a case (though this can vary depending on the brand or designer), the crown is a small, ribbed knob that allows its wearer to control the watch’s functions.
At a foundational level, the crown is used to wind the mainspring and set the time and date. In some cases, it can also be used to change the moon phase or chronograph features.
Crystal
The watch crystal is the transparent piece of glass, acrylic, or synthetic sapphire that covers the face. The durability and scratch resistance can vary depending on the crystal’s material, but they all share the same goals: to protect the delicate pieces from damage and provide the wearer with a clear view of the time. The crystal also plays a key role in the overall aesthetics of a design.
Day/Night Indicator
As the name implies, the day/night indicator on a watch tells the wearer whether the 12-hour cycle is on AM or PM time. Though it may seem like a given, this function is considered incredibly useful, especially for those traveling or working night shifts.
Dial
The dial is the face of the watch, kept protected in the case, behind the crystal. The typical watch dial is made up of a base or plate, often made from metal or ceramic, hour and minute markers (with varying font or number types), watch hands, and a brand logo.
Popular Styles of Watch Hands:
- Plume
- Baton
- Dauphine
- Sword
- Breguet
- Stick
- Snowflake (seen in TUDOR watches)
Digital Display
Digital display watches are a relatively new advancement in watchmaking, and while they may not be the preference for Swiss timepiece collectors, they certainly have their place in the horology history books. Instead of having hands ticking and pointing to markers on a dial, a digital watch displays the time on either an LCD or LED screen. If digital sounds up your alley, make sure to check out the high-quality models made by Grand Seiko.
Dive Watch
When you peruse the showcases of a luxury watch store, it’s impossible to get very far before hearing the term “dive watch”—but what does that actually mean? Dive watches are water-resistant timepieces crafted specifically for underwater performance. These models will often have thicker cases, rotating bezels to track elapsed time, and a strong, pressure-withstanding construction.
While they are designed for professional divers, anyone can sport one! Check out the most popular dive watches, such as the dark green 3000m OMEGA Seamaster Diver or stainless steel Longines Legend Diver, to find your style.
Dual Time
This watch term functions exactly how it sounds. A dual-time wristwatch is capable of displaying two different time zones at the same time. This design is perfect for those who travel consistently, allowing the wearer to set a “home” time zone and a second time zone for wherever they’re visiting.
Note: Dual time watches are not to be confused with GMT watches. While both display time in two zones, a GMT watch features an extra hand on the dial and a 24-hour bezel. Dual time watches typically use a separate 12-hour sub-dial or display for the second zone.
EOL
EOL, standing for “End of Life,” is a battery indication function often seen in quartz-powered watches. When the battery gets low, the second hand will jump in four-second intervals, rather than a smooth, consistent ticking. For digital displays, the screen will start blinking. This complication prevents sudden stoppage, letting the user know it’s time to get a replacement battery before it’s too late.
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Did you know that there are only four days throughout the year that are actually 24 hours long, according to true solar time? Because the Earth revolves non-circularly, unless it’s April 15th, June 14th, September 1st, or December 24th, a day can vary in length. This difference is referred to as the equation of time.
Typically, timepieces aren’t advanced enough to take this into consideration. While the equation of time can be indicated on a watch, only a few manufacturers have managed to develop semi-accurate complications. If a model does have it included on the display, it will be shown on a scale of -15 to +15, with a hand pointing to the difference.
Escapement
The escapement is the mechanism made up of an escape wheel and anchor, within a mechanical watch, that is in charge of advancing the hands of a watch. Without an escapement, the energy stored within the mainspring would uncoil out of control, and keeping accurate time would become impossible. If you can hear that signature “tick-tock” sound in your model, you can rest easy knowing the escapement is doing its job.
Flyback Chronograph
Flyback chronographs are an advanced version of traditional chronographs. When using a normal chronograph, the wearer needs to press the reset button in order to return the hand to zero and hit the start button to begin tracking time again. With a flyback chronograph, you can start counting again by pressing the reset button a single time. Models like the matrix green H. Moser & Cie. Streamliner Flyback Chronograph are especially useful when counting laps.
Frequency
The frequency refers to the speed at which a watch ticks or beats. This is controlled by the oscillations of the mechanism’s balance wheel and is measured in either vibrations per hour (VpH) or hertz. If a model beats at 36,000 VpH or higher, it’s categorized as a high-beat watch.
GMT
GMT watches are designed to tell the time in two different time zones at the same time. If a timepiece is GMT, the second time zone will be displayed with an additional hour hand, and the acronym will be written on the dial. These designs provide a simplified way to see the local time wherever you visit.
Why Are They Called GMT Watches?
Did you know that the international time system separates the world into 24 time zones? Each place is assigned to a zone based on its longitude. By this ruling, Greenwich, London, has a 0-degree longitude, making it the easiest base point for the world time zone scale.
Guilloche
Guilloche is a style of engraving often seen on watch dials and cases. Pronounced gee-oh-shay and sometimes referred to as engine turning, this type of decoration features a repetitive, precise, and intricate pattern.
It’s accomplished with a special hand-operated lathe machine and is quite labor-intensive. If a timepiece has guilloche detailing, its value tends to skyrocket.
Examples of Guilloche Patterns:
- Sunburt
- Hobnail
- Flames
- Barleycorn
- Basketweave
- Honeycomb
- Waves
Hacking Seconds
Also known as “stop seconds,” hacking seconds make synchronizing a watch with another clock simpler. To utilize this feature, the wearer needs to pull out the crown, engaging a lever that interacts with the balance wheel, halting all its oscillations. The seconds hand will freeze, and the wearer can set the watch to the exact desired second.
Hairspring
Sometimes called the “balance spring,” the hairspring is a very small spring in a mechanical watch’s system that returns the balance wheel to a neutral position. This vital part is extremely thin and tightly coiled and is essentially in charge of making a watch tick. Its invention in 1657 by Robert Hooke and Christiaan Huygens forever altered the accuracy of portable timepieces for the better.
Horology
Horology is the term for the science and art of timekeeping and watchmaking. If you are involved in the design, construction, and maintenance of clocks or wristwatches, you are considered a horologist. If you consider yourself a watch enthusiast or collector, you may be called a horophile (a lover of timepieces).
Indices
Did you know the thin ticks on the dial that represent the hours have a name? If a watch uses those markings, instead of numerals, they are called indices. These are typically attached to the dial, rather than printed on.
Jewels
Watch jewels are the tiny, hard bearings present in mechanical watches. These are typically made from durable, synthetic ruby or sapphire and are designed to reduce the friction between the moving metal components. A higher jewel count means the mechanism is more complex, but does not necessarily increase the timepiece’s value.
Lugs
Lugs are the protruding pieces of metal at the bottom and top of a case. The small holes or slots in the lugs allow for small metal spring bars to pass through and secure the case to the strap, adding to the structural support of a timepiece. Depending on the desired aesthetic, lugs could be straight, curved, or uniquely shaped.
Lume
Short for luminescence, lume is a glowing material applied to watch hands, hour markers, and dials that absorbs light and emits an attention-grabbing glow in the dark. Modern lume uses nonradioactive components and is featured in many high-end watches created to be worn in low-visibility areas, such as the Panerai Luminor Marina.
Mainplate
A mainplate is the rigid metal base piece that all the parts of a movement are mounted on. Crucial components, like gears, wheels, bridges, and springs, are secured in place, providing stability for the entire model. Depending on the brand, the mainplate can be made from brass, German silver, gold, or carbon.
Mainspring
The mainspring is the tightly coiled, spiral torsion spring that stores the main power within a watch. When you wind the timepiece, the mainspring coil tightens within the barrel, gaining more energy. As it slowly unwinds, the spring rotates the barrel, turning the center wheel and moving the hands. The “power reserve” is determined by the mainspring’s performance.
Micro Rotor
A watch micro rotor is a smaller, integrated weight similar to the centrally mounted rotor in charge of winding automatic timepieces. When the wearer moves, the off-center weight swings, engaging the gears responsible for winding the mainspring. The small frame allows for thinner movements to be utilized, making them preferable for those who like a sleek style.
Minute Repeater
Often considered one of the most sophisticated advancements in watchmaking, a minute repeater timepiece tells the time on demand using sound, instead of hands or digital displays. When you press the push piece, you’ll hear a series of tones which, when working together, relay the exact hour and minute of that moment in the day. Inspired by the likes of grandfather clocks and cuckoo clocks that chime every hour, on the hour, these unique designs are highly sought after by collectors.
Moon Phase
Moon phases are an increasingly popular complication most commonly found on the watch dial—but it’s more than mere decoration! If a timepiece has a moon phase feature, it will include a sub dial that showcases the current phase of the moon, identical to how it looks in the sky.
Movement
The movement describes the inner working mechanism of a timepiece, and there are two (technically three) variations. A manufacturer may also refer to their movements as a caliber.
The 3 Types of Watch Movements:
- Automatic: one of two types of mechanical movements, where the timepiece is wound by your wrist’s day-to-day motion
- Hand-wound: the other kind of mechanical movement, where the wearer must turn the crown manually to tighten the mainspring and store energy
- Quartz: relies on a battery to send an electrical current through a tiny quartz crystal to generate vibrations, instead of mechanical pieces
Open Heart Watch
Open heart watches are the piece de resistance of style! Not to be confused with a skeleton timepiece, where the majority of the movement is on display, an open heart watch features a cutout on the dial that showcases only part of the inner movement, typically the escapement and balance wheel. Artsy, functional, and timeless, every avid collector needs an open heart watch in their possession.
Perpetual Calendar
Perpetual calendars are a feat of watchmaking. This complication is capable of displaying the day of the week, date, and month for decades without the wearer needing to make any adjustments. They’re even able to show the 29 days of February during a leap year.
Power Reserve
The power reserve feature allows the wearer to track the amount of time left before their timepiece must be wound or charged again. Think of it like a tank of gas—as it nears the E for Empty range, you’ll know it’s time for a bit of maintenance.
Retrograde Dial
Retrograde dials have a hand that moves along an arc, rather than an entire circle. When the hand reaches the end, it snaps back to its starting position to begin its route again. This dynamic display is typically used to showcase dates, days, or power reserves.
Rotor
The rotor, also known as the oscillating weight, is the component of an automatic watch that spins with the wearer’s movement to wind the mainspring’s power. Without a working rotor, your watch wouldn’t be able to function properly.
Skeleton Dial
Skeleton dial watches have a transparent dial to allow a wearer to see into the complex, inner workings of their timepiece through the front of the watch. This approach to design transforms what could be seen as a simple wristwatch into a wearable work of art!
Fun fact: skeleton dial watches can be traced all the way back to the early 1800s during the Battle of Austerlitz. There, a soldier removed the non-vital pieces of his timepiece and engraved the remaining parts to mimic the love of his life left behind in his hometown. It continues to be exhibited in a military museum in Les Invalides to this day.
Strap
Also called the bracelet, the strap describes the flexible band that secures a watch around your wrist. These can be made from various materials such as leather, metal, spandex, or nylon. Depending on the designer, they’re often interchangeable. Cartier watches, for instance, have a tool-free system called the QuickSwitch, allowing wearers to effortlessly personalize the strap of their timepiece to their liking.
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Sub dials are the mini, auxiliary dials on the side of a watch case that indicate additional time-related functions. A sub dial, also called a register, is common in complex timepieces, covering various functions, including running seconds, elapsed time, or the date.
Swiss-Made
When you start to shop for designer timepieces, you’ll notice how much everyone praises a Swiss-made watch. A wristwatch can only qualify as Swiss-made if the movement is assembled, adjusted, started, and controlled by a brand manufacturing in Switzerland. Due to their reputation for expert craftsmanship and precise engineering, Swiss-made watch companies, like Oris, are well worth the investment.
Well-Known Swiss-Made Watch Brands:
Tachymeter
The tachymeter function allows the wearer to measure the approximate and average speed of a vehicle, as long as the covered distance is known. It’s become a signature complication for sports watches and is incredibly beneficial to anyone timing a race.
Telemeter
The telemeter function helps determine the distance of an event that can be both seen and heard by the observer, such as fireworks or lightning. It does so by measuring how long it takes sound to travel that specific distance.
Tourbillion
French for “whirlwind,” a tourbillion is a type of intricate mechanism found in high-end watches that houses both the escapement and balance wheel in a rotating cage. When the cage spins, it averages out potential errors caused by gravity. It was originally invented to counteract the inaccuracy found in pocket watches, but is now mainly used to add a luxurious feel to wristwatch designs.
Water Resistance
Water resistance describes a timepiece’s ability to withstand water pressure and impacts. While no wristwatch could ever be 100% waterproof, the more resistant a design is, the better protected the delicate parts will be, ensuring longevity for the owner.
Now that you’ve gained a bit more knowledge on the internal and external workings of wristwatches, you should feel more than ready to start your designer watch shopping journey. Head to your local Fink’s Jewelers to discover your dream timepiece today.
