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A Guide to Cartier Tank Watches

Cartier Tank watch at Fink's Jewelers

Few watches possess the enduring influence and immediate allure of the Cartier Tank collection. Instantly recognizable, effortlessly elegant, and filled with history, the Tank has remained at the pinnacle of luxury watchmaking for over a century. Although the collection itself is distinguished, each Tank style offers its own unique take on the original design.

What is the History of the Cartier Tank Watch?

Introduced by Cartier in 1917 at the beginning of World War I, the Cartier Tank style offered a revolutionary alternative to the round pocket-watches dominating the market at the time. The design was imagined by the legendary Louis Cartier, who drew inspiration for his line of Cartier women’s watches from the sleek look and rectangular shape of Renault tanks. Featuring an elongated rectangular case, Roman numeral dial, and leather strap, Cartier Tank watches became a favorite among celebrities and cultural icons.

Tank Française Watch

What Celebrities Wear Cartier Tank Watches?

  • Princess Diana: Following her divorce from Prince Charles, Princess Diana replaced the watch he had gifted her with a timeless Cartier Tank Louis. When special occasions called for a more formal design, Princess Diana opted for a gold Cartier Tank Française.
  • Tyler, The Creator: Known for his love of Cartier Tank watches, the rapper’s collection includes the Tank Must de Cartier and Tank Louis Cartier, among multiple other classic Cartier styles.
  • Meghan Markle: Following Princess Diana’s death, her gold Cartier women’s watch was passed down to her sons and then gifted by Harry to his wife, Meghan Markle. The gold Cartier Tank Française has made several appearances in the years since, showcasing not only its timelessness but also the sentimental value of Cartier Tank ladies’ watches.
  • Michelle Obama: In 2009, First Lady Michelle Obama selected a Cartier Tank Française for her first official portrait. In the years since, she has been seen wearing the Cartier Tank watch on numerous occasions, showcasing her love of the iconic style.
  • Rami Malek: From the stands of the US Open to the red carpet, Rami Malek is rarely seen without one of two iconic Cartier Tank watches – the Tank Americaine or the Tank Francaise.

What Sets Cartier Tank Watches Apart?

Cartier Tank watches balance refined luxury with bold design. Unlike brands with ornate embellishments, they stand out with clean geometry and a sleek look. The rectangular case is both distinctive and timeless, while the Roman numeral dial, blue steel hands, and sapphire cabochon crown unify the Tank ladies’ collection.

Tank Américaine Watch

Cartier Tank Ladies’ Watches

With smaller case sizes and slimmer profiles, Cartier Tank ladies’ watches offer a feminine look while staying true to the bold design that defines the collection. Available in classic styles — Louis Carter, Française, Solo, Américaine, and Must — Cartier Tank ladies’ watches come in precious metals, stainless steel, or mixed metals. Polished bracelets, diamond-set bezels, and leather straps provide a perfect blend of delicate details and bold style.

What are Some Popular Cartier Tank Watch Styles?

  • Cartier Tank Louis Cartier
  • Cartier Tank Francaise
  • Cartier Tank Americaine
  • Tank Must de Cartier

Cartier Tank Louis Cartier

The Cartier Tank Louis Cartier is the closest representation of the original Tank design. Featuring a softly rounded case, leather band, and the Roman numerals that make Cartier Tank watches instantly recognizable, the Cartier Tank watches in the Louis Cartier collection are a perfect choice for those who appreciate tradition, craftsmanship, and timeless luxury.

Tank Louis Cartier Watch

Cartier Tank Française

Introduced in the late 1990s, the Française is one of the most popular styles of Cartier women’s watches. Offering a more modern and versatile interpretation of the iconic style, the Française is defined by its integrated metal bracelet that creates a seamless transition from the case to the band.

The Tank Française maintains the signature design of Cartier Tank ladies’ watches while offering a style that blends sharp lines with a slightly sportier look. Available in stainless steel, gold, and two-tone variations, it’s one of the favorite Cartier women’s watches for everyday wear.

Cartier Tank Américaine

The Tank Américaine is easily distinguished from other Cartier Tank ladies’ watch collections thanks to its elongated, curved case that gently follows the natural shape of the wrist. Inspired by the historic Tank Cintrée, this model embraces Art Deco influences and a more dramatic silhouette, creating an elegant yet bold look.

Featuring a leather strap and powered by automatic mechanical movement, the Tank Américaine offers an elegant statement accessory that is a beautiful choice for formal occasions. The sculpted shape makes this style a favorite among collectors of Cartier women’s watches looking for something distinctive yet sophisticated.

Tank Must de Cartier

Tank Must De Cartier Watch

For a contemporary take on classic Cartier Tank ladies’ watches, the Tank Must de Cartier is a beautiful choice. Paying tribute to the original Must de Cartier women's watches, this collection features bold dial colors such as green, black, blue, and red, as well as traditional silver. Many Cartier Tank ladies’ watches in the Must de Cartier collection are powered by solar-driven quartz movements, an innovative feature that captures the watch’s blend of timeless design and modern technology.

3 Vintage and Discontinued Cartier Tank Watches:

  1. Cartier Tank Solo: The Tank Solo collection was introduced in 2004 and discontinued in 2019. With clean lines and a classic rectangular case, the design was a perfect choice for those new to Cartier women’s watches. For those looking for Cartier Tank ladies’ watches in a different style, the Tank Must de Cartier offers the same essence of the original with subtle upgrades and refinements.
  2. Cartier Tank Anglaise: With a distinctive design that integrated the sapphire cabochon crown into the case itself, the Cartier Tank Anglaise was introduced in 2012 as a blend of modern design and classic elegance. Although the collection was discontinued less than a decade later, it remains a favorite among vintage collectors and Cartier women's watch enthusiasts.
  3. Cartier Tank Basculante: One of the most unique Cartier tank ladies’ watches, the Basculante was originally introduced in 1932, but modern versions sought after today were produced primarily between 1997 and 2008. This Cartier women’s watch features a cabriolet design that is hinged to rotate 360 degrees to offer protection to the watch face during sports or other activities.

How to Choose the Right Cartier Tank Watch

Choosing the right Cartier Tank ladies’ watch depends on your lifestyle, personal style, and the occasions and settings where you intend to wear it. Models that feature leather straps, such as the Tank Louis Cartier or Tank Américaine, are ideal for formal occasions, while the Tank Française offers a polished, modern feel that’s perfect for everyday wear.

Cartier Tank Française Watch with Sunray Dial

Case size is also an important consideration, as Cartier women’s watches are designed to appear smaller and more elegant rather than bold and oversized. Whether made in stainless steel or precious metal, each model in the Tank collection offers a distinct look while remaining true to the unmistakable style of Cartier Tank ladies’ watches.

For more than a century, the Cartier Tank has served as a symbol of timeless design and iconic luxury. From its origins in the early 20th century to its continued appearance on the wrists of today’s cultural icons, the Tank has proven that true elegance never goes out of style.